New Old Thing
Posted
Wed, 05/21/03
Star Chefs currently has a nice piece about tea titled The New Old Thing. The article offers the basics, along with tea lingo and several recipes containing tea: Jasmine White Chocolate Truffles, Ochazuke (Rice & Tea Soup) and Scrambled Eggs with Tea-Cured Salmon, among others.
The New Old Thing (by Nina Rubin)
Americans are rediscovering one of the world's ancient beverages-tea. Maybe it's the comfort that this warm, soothing brew and its rituals bring to our lives - especially given the recent comfort food revival. Or perhaps it's the increasingly multi-culti nature of our society that compels us to embrace tea, the world's most popular beverage.
Whatever the reason, tea is making a serious comeback, and not just with Anglophiles or old ladies with flowered dresses. Think of it as the second wave of the hot beverage revolution. First came the Seattle-based coffee bar craze; now it's tea-time.
We're not just talking about basic black or the old English Breakfast standby. Today's sophisticated public demands high quality, flavor, and authenticity. This trend has gained steam in recent months, with restaurants proudly sourcing their own teas, hotels revamping their tea programs, and chefs incorporating teas as seasoning in their cooking. The result: a rainbow of loose-leaf teas is now available, from rare Chinese white teas to Darjeeling FTGFOP.
If you're feeling a bit lost, don't worry: the Star Chefs' tea experts will guide you through the terminology. We're also pleased to offer a selection of recipes-for and with tea-as well as advice on where to take tea, and how to host your own tea party (for do-it-yourself types).
Try this recipe:
Jasmine White Chocolate Truffles
From: Pastry Chef Polly Brown (Teaism, Washington DC)
7 ounces white chocolate, roughly chopped
Coat bottom and sides of a 4x8 baking pan lightly with cooking spray. In a small sauce pan boil the tea leaves and heavy cream. Strain to remove the tea leaves. Place the chopped white chocolate in a large bowl, and pour the boiling cream over the chocolate. Stir slowly until smooth. Pour the mixture into the pan. Refrigerate for at least two hours or overnight. Slice into 3/4" squares. Coat the squares in cocoa powder or in tempered white chocolate before serving. Yield: About 50 small 3/4" truffles.
Or try this one:
Ochazuke (Rice & Tea Soup)
From: Chef Arpad Lengyel (Teaism, Washington DC)
Rinse the rice thoroughly in cold water. Cook the rice in a rice cooker or in a pot of boiling water on the stove. Bring the 5 cups water to a rolling boil in a medium sized sauce pan. Remove from heat, and let the water cool to 170-degrees F. Add the tea and allow to steep for three minutes only – no longer, or the taste will become bitter. Strain the tea through a fine strainer or cheesecloth. With an ice cream scoop, scoop a big portion of rice into a bowl. Add the bok choy and crumbled nori. Pour some of the sencha tea over the rice and toppings to make a soup. Serve immediately. Yield: Two servings. Note: The soup is served usually with a variety of toppings, including: Chazuke seasoning packets, available in Asian stores; carrots (washed and grated), other vegetables, like radishes, watercress and savory cabbage; salmon (baked in the oven and crumbled or flaked into pieces), Japanese pickled plums or Wasabi horseradish paste..
Or try this variation of scrambled eggs:
Scrambled Eggs with Tea-Cured Salmon
From: Chef Arpad Lengyel (Teaism, Washington DC)
Tea-Cured Salmon
Scrambled Eggs
To Plate
To cure the salmon: Mix the tea, salt and sugar in a small bowl. Line a long glass (non-reactive) casserole or baking pan with plastic wrap. Pat the salmon filet dry and lay it skin-side down in the pan. Sprinkle the tea-salt-sugar cure mix over the salmon and coat evenly. Cover with plastic wrap. Use something heavy - about 5-10 pounds - to weigh the salmon down. Refrigerate for two days. Remove the salmon from the refrigerator and use cold water to rinse off all of the cure mixture. Pat the salmon dry with paper towels, then place skin side-down on a wooden or plastic cutting board. With a sharp knife, slice the salmon diagonally off the skin. The sliced salmon will keep overnight in the refrigerator - layer the slices on sheets of wax paper and store in plastic wrap.
To make the scrambled eggs: Crack the eggs into a large bowl and whisk in about 1/4 cup of cold water. Heat a large sauté pan over medium heat and add the butter. As soon as the butter stops bubbling, add the chopped jalapeño and minced ginger. Then add the eggs, cilantro, salt and pepper. Scramble until full cooked. Remove from the heat.
To plate: Put three of four slices of the tea-cured salmon on the plate. Sprinkle some chopped spring onions on the salmon to garnish. Add a nice chunk of crusty bread and a spoonful of scrambled eggs. Serve with a pot of Lapsang Souchong tea or another smoky black tea. Yield: Six servings. Note: It takes two days to cure the salmon, so plan ahead.
Very well done. If only I had the time to make it all!
Tags: Breakfast;
Coffee & Tea;
Desserts;
Soups & Stews
Send Comment >
